My seeds have not sprouted; how do I decide whether to wait or start again?

Start with the packet, not a guess about how many days seeds “should” take. Look for its average germination range and any notes about temperature, moisture, humidity, light, and sowing depth. Seeds can sprout before, during, or after the packet’s stated range, so reaching the end of that range doesn’t by itself prove the seeds have failed. [S1]

Then compare those instructions with what happened in your tray. If the packet’s range hasn’t passed, and conditions seem close to its directions, keep monitoring. If conditions may have been off, adjust what you reasonably can and reassess. There isn’t one universal restart deadline for every crop; use the packet or crop-specific guidance. [S2]

Check each kind separately if you can. One tray may hold seeds with different timing or requirements, so make a small note for each variety rather than treating the whole tray as one result.

For each one, compare:

1. The packet’s germination-day range and any special instructions.
2. Whether the growing mix has stayed evenly moist—not waterlogged or dry. [S1]
3. Whether the temperature and light conditions match the packet. Some seeds need light to germinate. [S1]
4. How deeply you planted them. A general guideline is a depth of about two to three times the seed’s diameter, but some seeds are exceptions, including seeds that need light. Follow the packet where it gives specific directions. [S1]
5. The seed’s age and, if known, how it was stored. Old or poor-quality seed and unsuitable sowing conditions can contribute to poor germination. [S2]

These checks can reveal a possible mismatch, but they can’t tell you with certainty why an individual seed hasn’t sprouted.

The supplied guidance doesn’t provide a way to diagnose an individual seed by digging it up. Instead, record the dry spell and uncertain depth, check the packet again, and bring moisture back in line with its directions without making the mix waterlogged. USU Extension advises keeping the mix evenly moist, not waterlogged or dry. [S1]

Then choose based on your calendar and how much uncertainty you can accept. If there’s room in your schedule, continue checking the original planting. If you need seedlings by a particular date, sow a small backup batch in labeled cells or containers using the packet’s instructions, while leaving the original undisturbed. That’s a planning option, not a guarantee that either batch will sprout.

Copy and fill in one row per variety. Use the packet’s own range and directions; don’t substitute a universal cutoff.

Germination tracking sheet

• Variety: [name]
• Packet’s average germination range: [range as printed]
• Date sown: [date]
• Packet notes on temperature, moisture, humidity, light, and depth: [notes]
• What I did: [depth, watering, location or setup]
• Conditions that differed or are uncertain: [for example, mix dried once; depth unknown]
• Checks so far: [date and observation]
• Decision for now: [keep monitoring / adjust conditions / sow a small backup]
• Reason and next review: [what I’m waiting to learn; date to review]

Worked example, with hypothetical details: Variety [A], sown [April 3]; packet range [10–14 days]; mix dried once; depth uncertain. On [April 18], note that the packet range has passed but the cause is not known. If the packet’s conditions can be followed now, keep the original planting under observation; if the planting date matters, sow a small, labeled backup. Write down which batch you’re checking rather than quietly replacing the first one.

This sheet helps you compare evidence and plan a next step. The cited guidance identifies possible contributors to poor germination, but it does not establish the cause in your tray or provide a single restart deadline. [S2]